Exploring Old Cairo

Our third day’s itinerary involved a walking tour of Old Cairo (Misr Al-Qadeema) which is predominately the home of various Coptic Christian churches as well as a synagogue. I noted that this was the second synagogue I have visited in the Arab world, the first being one in the Jewish quarter of Fez, Morocco. That makes me proud;). Anyway, I previously had very little knowledge of the Coptic branch of Christianity, so perhaps a little history lesson and background information is in order. Christianity was first introduced into Egypt around the 1st century AD, so it’s safe to say that the religion is well established here in Egypt. From what I understand the Copts separated from the Roman Catholic Church for various reasons, reflecting the factionalization and disintegration that has been the fate of all major religions. I will have to ask Mary, our resident Egyptian Copt, more about the distinctions of her community. Interestingly enough, Copts are actually the largest Christian community in North Africa and the Middle East, with several million practitioners in Egypt alone (somewhere around 10 percent of the population). Many Copts bear the tatoo of a Eastern cross on their wrists. It would be interesting to discover more about the relations between the Coptic and Muslim communities in Egypt.

The complex of Coptic Cairo was a fascinating mishmash of different architecture and other influences. Professor Sullivan explained that some of the architectural and design motives in the complex were brought from Syria and later made their way to Islamic Spain, or Al-Andalus. After the Spanish Inquisition, where the majority of the Jews and Muslims were expelled, these designs became part of the civic architecture in the Americas. I found this bit of history a perfect example of globalization, which has always existed in one form or another throughout human history. In the era prior to global capitalism, goods, ideas, and people were traded and moved to every corner of the known world. It is understandable that Egypt, given its prominent location on the Mediterranean Sea, has reflected this reality for thousands of years.

The Hanging Church was refreshingly simple in its design, especially compared to the ornate and rather ostentatious Catholic churches I had seen in Europe. We also stopped by the Churches of Saint Sergius and Saint George. The ancient architecture and cool, narrow walls of the religious complex made for a peaceful and contemplative walk. However, I found that the experience gave me a more empty feeling than I expected given the religious and spiritual significance of the area. But at the same time this part of Cairo truly is a testament to the religious diversity that has added so much richness to the cultures and society of Egypt, even to this day. Our visit to the Ben Ezra Synagogue made me think more about religion in the modern Middle East. The Jews have a very long and turbulent history in Egypt, dating back to Pharaonic times with the Old Testament stories of Moses and persecution. Today there are few Jews left in Egypt, most of them having left after the creation of Israel in 1948. The Ben Ezra Synagogue had been lovingly restored in recent years, yet it was saddening to see that it was no longer in regular use. It would be nice to someday see the pews of this place full again.

The highlight of our visit to Old Cairo was the Mosque of Amr ibn al-Aas, which was named after the man who conquered Egypt in the name of Islam in the 7th century. Incredibly this was the first mosque built in Egypt and the entire continent of Africa! Physically it was quite large and could possibly fit a small neighborhood within its walls. What I’ve liked the most about the religious places that we’ve visited is the sense of peace and contemplation within them, as well as the feeling of belonging to a shared community, whether it being Coptic, Muslim, or Jewish. The etiquette in the mosque stressed modesty and, although most of us were dressed in what was deemed respectable clothing, some of us were given these goofy hooded green robes to wear. Half of us ended up looking like wizards, and for a second it felt like I was at Hogwarts. Ironically a mosque is probably as far from the idea of a school of witchcraft and wizardry, which made the situation even more comical. I managed to snap a photo of a young Egyptian man, perhaps a few years older than myself, reading the Koran in contemplative silence. He seemed like someone who was trying to find peace with himself, like many of those who seek solace in religion. It is a difficult time to be living in Egypt, with the price of bread skyrocketing and other daily struggles taking a toll on ordinary Egyptians. The prospects for a happy and prosperous future seem more and more futile for many. As I sat on the cool marble floor of the mosque, I silently prayed for this young man with the Koran.
It is funny how you can make an emotional connection with someone without exchanging a single word.