Today I was in a rather positive mood. Last night I had a really great time with Julia at the Cairo Jazz Club, one of the premier venues in the city. The music was oriental jazz led by an Egyptian jazz artist named Yehya Khalil. The music was amazing and truly a creative blend of Middle Eastern music and traditional jazz. Fast paced drum beats were accompanied by a saxophone, accordion, and the wailing voice of a very talented young man. I've actually been rather impressed by the singing ability of a number of men here in Egypt. When you first see them, you don't quite expect them to produce such beautiful range and haunting vocals. The audience seemed to love it, and there was plenty of clapping and cheers after each segment was finished. I enjoyed the audience in their appreciation, but this sort of music forced me into quiet contemplation even though I didn't quite understand what was being sung. As long as it sounds nice and speaks to me, I don't really care whether or not I understand every word in a piece of music. Afterwards we walked along the Nile corniche and the bridge that went into downtown Cairo. The breeze was nice and the atmosphere was lively, but we did get a lot of stares for various reasons. You have to remember that it was after midnight, and a non-Egyptian woman without a hijab with a strange man is going to attract some unwanted attention. Perhaps it was foolish or naive on my part to enjoy a nice evening along the Nile in such a way, but I was in no way meaning to make some sort of obnoxious statement by my actions. A random guy grabbed my arm and asked me in a more concerned than threating way as to why as was with this girl. I tried to explain to him in Arabic but quickly decided that the ignorant American card would be best played at this moment. He apologized to me in English and quickly disappeared into the crowds on the bridge. I was upset that the guy felt he had to make an exception for me because I was American, something that would certainly not be extended to any old Egyptian. I stilled enjoyed the night regardless, and I had the lovely sounds of Yeyha Khalil in my head until it hit the pillow.
Anyway, today I stopped into a small cafe near the Longchamps. I gave the two people at the counter the traditional Arabic greeting and the conversation began from there, all in Arabic. The pair were Ashraf and Rihanna, and they were both Muslims in their twenties. I told them I was from California and Ashraf exclaimed that he loved Arnold, or the "governator", and his films. I had to admit that he did make some pretty cool flicks back in the day. Ashraf asked me all about my experience in Cairo and what I thought of his country. He himself loved how nice the American people were, but he was less than enthusiastic about the government. I have heard this line of thinking countless times here in Cairo and other parts of Egypt, and its comforting to know that there are those out there who can make a distinction between a country's government and its people. I can think of quite a few Americans out there who can take a lesson or two from this. Again I will emphasis that the conversation I had with Ashraf and Rihanna was all in Arabic, with a few English words thrown in for comprehension. Needless to say I was pretty proud of myself and I even learned a few new words. I hope to see them again tomorrow because not only did I make two new Egyptian friends, but the food was excellent as well.
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